17.4.11

My favorite perfection.


        The one of a kind Riccardo Tisci took flight with a new obsession this season: Japan. Not the Japan of obis and geishas, he said, but the land of robot toys and the dancer Kazuo Ohno.One outfit required 2,000 hours of cutting and 4,000 hours of sewing. A single pair of trousers had 90 meters of plissé.  The extraordinary appliqué on a bolero that crossed a robot's face with a Catholic cross, or the organza that was laser-cut and appliquéd on layers of chiffon and tulle to create a three-dimensional spread of vermilion wings. One gown featured a Japanese crane, again appliquéd, that rose phoenixlike from a cloud of feathers. Massive bird's wings were folded across a sheer skirt. The Swarovski crystals and pearls that were crusted on the bodice of another dress began to pop like fish eyes as the dress moved. The craft was undeniable, though in the end, like Ohno's favorite dried flowers, the clothes lacked some of the rude life that Tisci stuffed into his recent menswear collection. I LOVE IT.

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